Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 9 & 10

LOC: Snow Cave

BARO 781, No Precip, Wind L from the NW

Well, we finally found our way out of the storm. Yesterday started out nice, but the light snow never stopped and the wind really picked up in the afternoon. We headed out touring anyways, mostly as a way of passing the day. When we were leaving camp it was a total whiteout.

We went in the direction of Mt. Obelia heading North. We encountered some wind scoured crust not to far up, so we turned and tried going a different way, under a cornice. The snow however, was not good there either. We pondered what we should do, and decided to ski down the Sirenia Glacier if there was a break in the weather.

During a brief improvement, we headed down. It was survival sking because we couldn't see a thing. At the bottom we laughed at the poor location of camp. It was always in the wind. We decided to skin back up and do another lap just to pass some time.

At the change over spot, mid skin rip, it started to clear out. Every man/woman for him/herself we skied down and if just got better and better. We carried on much further this time and got some much appreciated powder turns. With lots of smiles at the bottom we watched Sam go off a jump in the sunshine.

Back at camp it was very windy and there was lots of blowing snow. Some people were a little grouchy.

The next day we awoke to a glorious day. We had made it back to the easy days we had experienced at the start of the trip. We agreed to head for Mt. Oluk and hurriedly prepared for departure. We escaped camp at 11:07am.

Heading to the peak, we set out in the direction we had two days before. This time however, we hugged the side of Mt. Dolphin and then got some really nice turns down to 1940m, where we could begin climbing back up around Mt. Dolphin. We had lunch at 2275m and then skinned up to the summit of Mt. Oluk (2710m.)

The skin up was a long slog up a large steep slope. The view was of a beautiful alpine bowl with cliffs, crevasses and peaks all around. We scrambled up the last few meters and the surroundings were all our friends who we had visited before the storm: Wahoo Tower, Mt. Sirenia and Mt. Bonito.

We skied back down and got some of the best powder of the trip. A couple of pitches were sun crusted but most of it was great. The last pitch especially had light powder which was like being bathed in a heavenly glow. From there we skinned back to camp which took about an hour.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 8

LOC: Snow Cave

Sky Overcast Thin, Wind L, BARO 770 Rising, S1, 0.7°C

The storm continued through all of the day and all through the night.

We awoke yesterday morning to improving weather. I was roused from my slumber by Martina saying the weather looked better and we could get out for a ski, and it did look better through breakfast and while getting ready to go. But the barometer was dropping rapidly and the weather was significantly degraded by the time we got going.

We had plans for traversing around Mt. Dolphin and heading towards Mt. Oluk. However, with poor visibility we decided to just ski down the glacier heading East. After a few turns we stopped and ate. We relaxed happy to be out of the wind which seemed to never stop at camp. We put on our skins and returned to camp. It was a total white out and Martina did a great job getting us home quickly.

We spent the rest of the day relaxing in the snow cave. When we went to bed it had started snowing heavily and we all had a job to do digging out our tents before packing it in. Martina remarked, “we'd really be in trouble it the wind picks up. All this light snow would bury us.”

I had been in my tent only a short while when the wind picked up. I rolled over and hoped for the best. With my hood and bag pulled over my head and cinched tight, I tried to sleep but the wind got louder and louder. I could hear voices yelling outside and hoped they were alright. Then the wind eased for a moment and I heard Martina say, “We have to move the tent!” That's when I knew that I couldn't hide in my sleeping bag any more. We were in trouble. The snow behind my head had piled up to half the height of the tent and I needed to get out and deal with it. This was at 3:30am.

Outside the tent, I saw Sam, Martina and Kat moving Kat's tent. It was being constantly buried behind the walls we had built to protect her from the wind.

I was digging out my tent when I found out Sam's tent had been shredded and he couldn't return to it. He asked if he could share my tent and I agreed. Martina's tent was getting buried and she didn't know what to do. I didn't think I could help, so I started rearranging my gear to make room for Sam. Sam helped Martina sort herself out by digging an exit channel for the snow to blow out. Then he joined me in the tent at 5:30am. The wind continued to howl and we fell asleep.

At 8:00am, we awoke and the sun was out. It was still snowing and a little windy but much improved. My companions were exhausted, especially Sam. We dug out and Sam called Dale on the satellite phone and we rejoiced when we heard the weather forecast was good for the rest of the week.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 6

LOC: Camp Dolphin

Sky Obscured, S3, BARO 777 Rising, Wind Strong from the NW, 0.3°C

Another camp day. Clothes are getting wet and it is difficult staying warm. I have been reading a lot and am enjoying my book. Also, I have been eating chocolate.

Yesterday spent most of the day in my sleeping bag. I went for a walk in the afternoon to a rock North of camp. Sat on it for a while. The clouds lifted and I could see some of the peaks nearby. Some we had climbed, others not. There was much growth on the top of the rock, possibly lichens.

After it got dark, I started to be a little paranoid, thinking that the noises I was hearing was a bear, then realizing it was a person. When we were on Mt. Dolphin we could see what looked like tracks on a distant peak. We guessed it had been a wolverine or badger. Despite being in the bag for most of the day, I got a good sleep, straight through until 8:30am. Earlier, when it was just light, Kat startled me by shoveling snow off my tent. Her knee is bothering her and she felt getting up and moving around was better for it.

When we were climbing Mt. Bonito, I was able to make out the peaks of Vancouver Island in the distance. Victoria Peak and the Warden were the most obvious and then I could make out Mt. Albert-Edward.

Today it was snowing a lot more than yesterday. It was still very windy, so the combination was really filling things in quickly. We dug out the kitchen area and then tried to put a tarp over it but it was too windy. As a final solution we decided to dig a snow cave.

I have always wanted to make a snow cave and have never had the opportunity, so I got right on to it. We needed to keep the entrance small so we could block it up later. It was slow going at first because of how difficult it was to maneuver. I traded off with Sam and he took a turn in the hole while I cleared snow from the entrance. Then, I got in the hole again and as it increased in size it was easier to dig so things moved along faster. Finally, there was enough room and we both were able to be inside digging. We probably would have excavated a ballroom but Martina called a halt because she and Kat were cold and hadn't eaten. So we cleaned up a bit and then the ladies joined us in the cave for lunch. We had no problem cooking out of the wind in the cave. Temperature inside the snow cave: 1.3°C.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 5

LOC: Camp Dolphin

Sky Obscured, Wind Moderate gusting to Strong, S-1, 1.3°C, BARO 781 Steady

It is windy! We are having a camp day. The wind started yesterday evening and hasn't let up. It will be calm for a moment and then shake the tent like a hurricane. I have secured the tent in every possible way and have eight lines coming off it to improvised anchors.

It is warm though which is nice. Last night I slept in just my base layers. It is good to have some down time and to be able to reflect on the earlier days of the trip. I'm feeling really good about things. The team is pretty great and our leader, though fresh is competent in her skills. Hopefully, this weather doesn't last to long and we can get back to doing more missions.

Yesterday was a shorter outing than on the previous days. Our objective was Mt. Oluk directly South of camp. We ascended a crevassed slope to attain a col in the East ridge of Mt. Oluk. This required a lot of boot-packing. We climbed as close to the rocks on looker's left as we could. The snow was more crumbly and difficult to climb but it kept us further away from the more dangerous crevasses.

On top of the col we stopped for lunch. It was a comfortable spot and I could have relaxed there for a while. Afterwords. We started up the ridge but it quickly became a knife edge and we gave up. It was fun watching Martina scout around like a mountain goat trying to find a route for us.

We turned around and headed up the lesser peak on the other end of the col. This was Mt. Dolphin, the namesake of our camp. We had some nice views and Martina was able to point out Overseer Mountain which was where she had gone on a previous trip earlier in the month.

Next, we skied back down. Martina found us an exciting route with great snow. Even though it was steep at the top Kat skied it without problem. Seems she is shaking off her fall from yesterday without issue.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 4

LOC: Camp Dolphin

Sky Broken Thin, Wind Light, NW, No Precip, 0.4°C, BARO 776 Steady

Yesterday, we set out again to ski the couloir on Mt. Bonito. The weather was beautiful and we were all enjoying it. We got a late start, just after 11:00am.

Our first challenge was a slope with many crevasses to the NW of Mt. Bonito. Similar to yesterday but a bigger slope and bigger crevasses. Also bigger were the snow bridges, so it felt comfortable and we attained the ridge between Mt. Bonito and Mt. Albacore without difficulty.

We had lunch and weren't much disturbed by the light wind. From the ridge we didn't have direct access to the top of the couloir. To get there, it appeared we would need to ski down the other side and then ascend up again on another ridge. We were not assured of being able to get to the top of the couloir. We discussed options, thought about climbing Mt. Albacore instead but decided to go for the couloir. We had nice weather and lots of daylight.

Skiing down the backside of Mt. Bonito was very nice. The snow was good and we descended about 350m and the view was different. From there, we bootpacked up onto the ridge and then started skinning up.

The ridge was narrow but wide enough to comfortably find a route. Rocky features were the only obstacles. We did have a miscommunication where Martina told me to wait and I wasn't sure why. Then I missed her instruction to come along and continued to wait, watching her ascend the ridge until she was out of sight.

Sam and Kat caught up and I told them why I was waiting. After a while, Kat suggested we carry on and seeing no reason why not we did. We caught up with Martina at the end of the ridge, sitting at the entrance to the couloir.

The summit (2820m) was a short hike above so Sam and I quickly went and bagged that and then returned to the entrance to the couloir to descend. The top elevation of the couloir was 2775m.

After taking the time to explain to Sam the route he should ski down, Martina got into position to take some pictures and the Sam skied it! Martina was concerned because Sam hadn't gone where it was safest, however we could hear him whooping at the bottom so he must have been ok. It was my turn next. Martina again tried to explain where I should ski and I felt I understood. She wanted me to stop well above where Sam had. I skied down and it was very thrilling. From where I stopped I could communicate with Sam though we were far apart. I looked up and waited for Kat to ski down.

Soon, I could see Kat making cautionary turns coming down. After she had descended about a third of the way she lost control and fell. She was sliding down ass-over-tea-kettle. By the time she reached me she was going fast and below it looked to me like she was headed for a large crevasse. She went out of sight and I waited speechless until Sam shouted that he could see her and she was ok, but missing a ski.

Martina started down and I yelled that Kat was missing a ski. She didn't understand and kept coming. Finally, I got her attention and told here she would need to hike back up to retrieve the ski. She did and after some time found the ski to our collective relief.

Matina then skied down to me and we went to rescue Kat who couldn't move because she was in a crevasse field. Martina and I roped up and bootpacked over to Kat. Martina and Kat had a heartfeld reunion and we retrieved Kat's other gear from above.

We headed for home and had a late dinner in the dark. Then we went through an extensive debrief as a group. Martina's conclusion was that as a guide she should have skied down first to show us the safest route. She could not be focused on taking pictures.

Tomorrow, we will continue the adventure older and wiser and perhaps more cautiously, but no less in love with the mountains.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 3

LOC: Camp Dolphin

Sky Few Thin, Winds Light from the NW, No Precip, 0.8°C, BARO 782 Falling

Yesterday was a challenging, exciting day. Our original goal was to ski a nice couloir we can see from camp on Mt. Bonito. To get there we needed to ascend a large slope with many crevasses between Mt. Bonito and Wahoo Tower. Martina was a total guide once again. We were in two teams of two and I was with Martina. A position I like because then I can watch and learn as much as possible.

The route ended up being pretty relaxed until the end. We had just crossed underneath a large serac, Martina had her probe out but was confident. Suddenly she probed and felt nothing underneath. She retreated hastily and regrouped. She had me put a prussic on the line so I could keep it tight between us. Then she carefully threaded the needle, keeping the snow bridge on her left and the barely covered crevasse on her right. We followed her tracks exactly to the top.

After a windy lunch, we decided it would be difficult to reach the couloir and we had some concerns about the snow there because we had found some wind slab on the slope where we ascended. As another option we decided to go for Mt. Sirenia.

To get there, we ascended a couloir with a crevasse at the top and snuck around the looker's left corner. Martina had us on belay for the crucial move. After a short discussion, we decided to keep going and boot packed up a narrow ridge of snow to a bench just below the summit of Mt. Sirenia. At this point Kat and I decided to stop. I had found the boot pack scary. Martina and Sam continued up, with Martina soloing and belaying Sam behind. At first, I thought exposure was to much but watching them I changed my mind. At least in Sam's case.

When they returned from the summit, we made a hasty retreat down the boot pack and then had a fun ski down. We skied roped through the crevasse field at first but ditched the rope because it was sketchy skiing with it. We followed Martina's tracks very close.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 2

LOC: Camp Dolphin

Sky Few, Winds Light from the NW, No Precip, -6.8°C, BARO 782 Falling

Had an excellent sleep last night, and why not? We reached the summit of Wahoo Tower Yesterday!

We rolled out of bed at 8:00am yesterday and set out at 10:30am. We rounded Mt. Oluk on the West side and quickly saw our first objective; a large couloir with a cornice at the top and a crevasse in the middle.

Martina led us up. We were roped into two groups of two because of the crevasse hazard. The avalanche hazard was deemed to be moderate. At the crevasse, which was mostly filled in, Martina took one ski off and made her way across a bridge. We each then came across one by one. We did a couple more switchbacks, unroped and boot packed up the rest of the way. Sneaking by the cornice on looker's left.

Then we had lunch, after which we contoured around the east side of Wahoo and then skinned up a wide snow slope to the final couloir before a short hike to the top. The slope was steep and there were cliffs below but the snow was good and we felt confident skinning so after a few serious moments we arrived at the top (2840m).

We had a brief celebration at the top then skied down. The snow was crusty in spots but good in others so we had s fun ski.

We were back at camp a little after 5:00pm. We toasted Earth Day and our success with some 'Kool-aid'. When the stars came out later it was mighty fine.

We haven't finalized the objective for today, but I'm happy with anything. I feel very lucky to be here.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 1

LOC: Tent, Camp on Glacier near Wahoo Tower.

Sky Clear, Wind Calm, No Precip, -6.6°C

We made it! Yesterday was crazy with the emotions of wanting to go but not knowing for sure if it would happen. It was the worst at the Pemberton Airfield. When we arrived our plane wasn't there and in the end he was only 15min late but was a very long 15min.

Dale, the pilot was a helpful, friendly man. The flight was beautiful. Snow-world fully realized. The plane flew low and slow and the views were surreal. It took 30-40min. When we arrived at the place we would camp, he circled a few times and it was very intense because the plane felt like it was upside down and these mountains were on there side. When we finally landed it was a relief.

It was already late in the day so we went about making camp and having dinner. Sam and Martina's experience was very beneficial. The kitchen is a deep pit with high walls to keep out the snow and different levels for standing, sitting and cooking. Each tent has an extensive wall around it as well.

The bench we are on is relatively small. Like the size of four to five soccer pitches. It rolls off to the East and West and there are minor peaks to the North and South. Last night we had clear skies and a large waxing gibbous moon. It should be spectacular when it is full.

Our goal for today is Wahoo Tower. The weather couldn't be better and we don't want to leave it and regret it if the weather changes. Whatever happens though, for me this trip is already a success. Just camping on a Glacier, in this epic snow wilderness, makes me happy.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day -1

LOC: Inside car, St. Andrew's Way, Whistler BC

Sky Obscured, Elev. 610M, Wind Calm, S-1, 8.8°C

Will today be the day? Yesterday the pilot said maybe. It has been snowing all morning.

11:48am

The weather is definitely improving. Clearing to the tops of the surrounding hills. Faint patches of blue sky. The wait has been difficult, but not terrible. We went for a swim and sauna as a group, went for sushi, made hamburgers together. The strain has been noticeable though, and has stressed the group early in its bonding stages.

I think the wait has also been good for me. After my job finished at Mt. Washington, I was hectic getting moved out of the winter apartment. The down time has felt good and the chance to reflect is healthy. I have been pondering my future in the winter recreation world. Is it time to make a move.

Still, I hope today is the day. I want to camp on a Glacier, climb peaks seldom seen and turn it all into my playroom by skiing down a fun and exciting line. Experiencing for a moment how it feels to move beyond the limits of the human body. Is that hubris? Vanity? It feels like it is my humanity, inherently fallible buy always capable of amazing feats.

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day -2

LOC: Coudre Point, Nairn Falls PP, 15°C

Sky Broken, Elev. 230M, Wind Calm, No Precip.

Arrived in Whistler yesterday, to prepare for a ski trip to the Wahoo Tower area in the Powell River Forest District. Wahoo Tower is a moderately high peak (2800m) surrounded by massive glaciers and other adjacent high points. The Manatee Glacier is to the south and Sirenia Glacier is to the north. The western flanks of this high plateau drain into the East Toba River and subsequently into the Toba River and Inlet.

My partners on this adventure are Kat and Martina Halik, and Sam a friend of Martina's. I work with Kat on Mt. Washington Ski Patrol and have toured with her before. Martina I met last Spring when she came to work at Mt. Washington for a short time. She is working towards becoming an ACMG ski guide and this trip is part of her preparation. Sam is an Australian who has been in BC for three years. He works sometimes as a chef.

Sam and Martina have been friendly so far. Martina is staying temporarily in the apartment of a friend who is away traveling. This has been useful, giving us a place to prepare for for the trip. The friend's roommate is there, so the rest of us must stay away so as to not upset him. Martina has not accepted any help with the food preparation which must have been a lot of work.

I am optimistic about the trip, though it's success is very weather dependent. I think the group has sufficient experience, strength, and knowledge for success. This is the greatest winter adventure I have participated in yet and matches in length any kayak trip I have done. I see this as taking the next step in my life journey. I am reminded of how I felt when I went for my SKGABC Level II exam on Saltspring Island: excitement and anxiety over the future I am making for myself.

Here however, the test will be to make no bad mistakes and to come back safe and happy. There is no examiner except myself. These are the important steps to take in life, in order to be actively in control rather than swept along. I hope to take many more.

This is also my first adventure off of Vancouver Island. My comfort zone, mentally and physically is expanding.