Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Glacier Ski Camp, Wahoo Tower Area - Day 3

LOC: Camp Dolphin
Sky Few Thin, Winds Light from the NW, No Precip, 0.8°C, BARO 782 Falling

Yesterday was a challenging, exciting day. Our original goal was to ski a nice couloir we can see from camp on Mt. Bonito. To get there we needed to ascend a large slope with many crevasses between Mt. Bonito and Wahoo Tower. Martina was a total guide once again. We were in two teams of two and I was with Martina. A position I like because then I can watch and learn as much as possible.

The route ended up being pretty relaxed until the end. We had just crossed underneath a large serac, Martina had her probe out but was confident. Suddenly she probed and felt nothing underneath. She retreated hastily and regrouped. She had me put a prussic on the line so I could keep it tight between us. Then she carefully threaded the needle, keeping the snow bridge on her left and the barely covered crevasse on her right. We followed her tracks exactly to the top.

After a windy lunch, we decided it would be difficult to reach the couloir and we had some concerns about the snow there because we had found some wind slab on the slope where we ascended. As another option we decided to go for Mt. Sirenia.

To get there, we ascended a couloir with a crevasse at the top and snuck around the looker's left corner. Martina had us on belay for the crucial move. After a short discussion, we decided to keep going and boot packed up a narrow ridge of snow to a bench just below the summit of Mt. Sirenia. At this point Kat and I decided to stop. I had found the boot pack scary. Martina and Sam continued up, with Martina soloing and belaying Sam behind. At first, I thought exposure was to much but watching them I changed my mind. At least in Sam's case.

When they returned from the summit, we made a hasty retreat down the boot pack and then had a fun ski down. We skied roped through the crevasse field at first but ditched the rope because it was sketchy skiing with it. We followed Martina's tracks very close.

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